Life Surrounded by Mountains

Living in Nagano means living with the gifts of the mountains.
Wild plants, clean water, and above all, mushrooms find their way onto our table every day.

Although mushrooms are in season during autumn, they are now available year-round in supermarkets across Japan. Rich in natural umami, so much so that some varieties are even used to make dashi, mushrooms are a staple in my home. There is always some kind of mushroom dish on the table at every meal.

Concentrating Umami the Traditional Way

Mushrooms already contain deep flavor on their own. However, if you leave them in the sun for a short time before cooking, excess moisture evaporates and the umami becomes more concentrated.

It may seem like an extra step, but the difference in flavor is remarkable.

Because mushrooms contain a large amount of water, they cook beautifully in a heavy pot with a tight lid, such as a Dutch oven. With only a small amount of added liquid, they release their own juices and become almost soup-like.

In this recipe, I add bonito-based dashi rather than cooking them in water. The result is a synergy of flavors, layers of umami that deepen and round out the dish.

A Dish for Cool Seasons

From autumn into winter, and again from late winter into early spring when the air is still slightly cold, I love serving these warm mushrooms over tofu.

The tofu I use is called oboro tofu, a soft, delicate tofu that is not pressed into a firm block.

Most tofu is placed into molds and weighted to remove excess water, creating its familiar square shape. Oboro tofu, however, is gently scooped while still soft and moist, and sold in that delicate state. The texture is incredibly silky and tender.

The combination of smooth, almost creamy tofu and the tender yet textured mushrooms is simply perfect.

Sake Pairing: Warm Sake (Atsukan)

The best pairing for this dish is warm sake, known as atsukan.

There are several ways to warm sake, but I recommend placing it in a small carafe (tokkuri) and gently heating it in a hot water bath. The ideal temperature is about body temperature — not too hot — around 45°C (113°F). Place the carafe in hot water and warm it gradually.

Holding a small cup of warm sake while enjoying these mushrooms over tofu gently warms the body from within, a simple pleasure of the colder months in Japan.